Saturday, July 29, 2017

"Summers Over"

“Summer’s Over”

One of my favorite John Wayne movies is The Cowboys. In the closing minutes John Wayne’s character gets shot up by a cattle rustler.  He says “Summer’s Over” to Mr. Nightlinger (stellar role played by Roscoe Lee Browne), the camp cook, meaning that his death is but minutes away.  Indeed, it was.  He got buried in the next scene.

I spend the last day or so of all vacations in a state of remorse, regretting our return to TX and the promise of its heat.  In this case, my state of remorse started after the depressing fishing performance with the Puffin charter boat in Seward.  It worsened greatly as Pop and Brek headed north to the airport to head home. 

Fortunately, none of us has been gutshot by cattle rustlers, eaten by a bear, died in a harrowing plane crash, or the countless other dangers we’ve exposed ourselves to over the past 8 weeks.  But dang, I sure have enjoyed it and don’t look forward to this vacations end.  I guess you can’t fish every day forever. Alas, continued exposure would eventually cause the snow covered mountains that lay just beyond the camper steps to become as un-special as the strip malls I see every day on my drive home from work on I-35. Hard to imagine, but that’s the human condition.  Different is what’s special.  Folks want what they don’t normally have and become unsatisfied with it once it’s “had”.  This has been the cause of many a failed marriage, for that matter.  The notion of returning to a 104F heat in TX seems particularly hard to like.  Seems like a chapter out of Proverbs or Ecclesiastes in this lesson somewhere.

A couple days before the trip was over, I asked the kids and wife “What have we learned about the world, ourselves, or whatever? And how are we different for having taken this trip?”.  Responses thus far: 
·         Erik – He has formally come out of the closet..... as a salmon fisherman.  He didn’t know this about himself before the trip (having never caught one), but those of us present at the time saw the birth of a salmon slayer on June 26, aka “day 24”. 
·         Lilly –
·         Victoria –
·         Matt-
·         Luke –
·         Shane – I have often dreamed of moving out west, and even possibly of Alaska, but this trip has convinced me otherwise (at least, on Alaska).  Closer inspection revealed that while Alaska is awesome in times (entertainment), it is also immense in size, and challenging in travel.  I’ve loved every part of it (maybe save Fairbanks), so I’d want to keep seeing all of it.  Accessing each location is a challenge, even if you’re already here.  Costs for anything from 2x4’s to fuel to PBR is about 50% over what you’d pay at home. Further, if “absence makes the heart grow fonder”, then surely continued exposure makes the heart less appreciative. I wouldn’t want that, so Alaska must remain an every now and then adventure, not an ongoing doldrum.
·         Deanna – having friends (Monsons, Lynn, Brek) to share the time made it more special than times without them.
·         Travis – when you live in Alaska for a month, it becomes your normal.  The dream becomes normal.
·         Amanda – Texas chops down too many trees.  Everywhere else, has trees, but not Texas.

This trip was so long in the planning (8 years) and so far reaching (6k miles, 19 camper setups, 7 states, 3 provinces, countless miles hiked, fish caught, etc) I don’t know exactly what to do now.  It’s hard to think about a future vacation, because I now see what COULD be done on a vacation.  Spoiled maybe?

Because I’m a spreadsheet geek, I ran a quick calculation, and determined that Travis and Amanda have spent 1.2% and 1.3% of their respective Earth days on this trip. Over 1% of their lives to date have been experienced in the ~57 day journey! That’s incredible.  With time, it’ll become a lesser and lesser portion of their life experience, but certainly, it’s a significant part of who they are now. Hopefully it impacts who they will become in the long run. 

I grew up in Texas and really didn’t leave it much as a kid.  My world was small, and my perceived “range” was limited.  After college graduation, I started travelling quite a bit with work and have worked on projects from Arizona to Florida, Pennsylvania to South Dakota.  I’ve seen the beauty and peril that other climates and populations have to offer.  I grew up believing (based on the feedback of my great grandmother) that Yankees were among the worst things you could encounter (next to fire ants or coyotes), but upon actual exposure…… found most Pennsylvanians to be quite pleasant.   Our kids have now had contact with folks all over this continent, and have used their passports several times (albeit, not without challenges of their own (recall day 13- Canada border crossing, “bear spray and fireworks, dad”)). 

My hope and prayer for my kids has been:  1. Their salvation (of course), 2. That they become responsible, contributing, taxpaying adults someday, 3. They achieve their life potential.  #1 has been secured already. They can recite the hope and truth of Jesus Christ better than I can at this stage.  #2 is still an ongoing project.  We ain’t there yet…. But this trip has been all about #3.  Letting them know that there is more out there than Bob Wills Music, Lone Star Beer and 104F heat.  If and when they graduate from their final classes, I want them to take a job and start a life/family in the location of their desires. If that turns out to be in DFW, then so be it, but if it turns out to be in Jasper, Wyoming then good on ‘em. Godwilling, Deanna and I will see them often in either location.  Especially during elk season…..if Wyoming….  I don’t want their umbilical cord to limit who they become later in life. 

My all in budget to execute this trip was about $16k.  Final tab ended up being just under $20k due to the transmission work done in Fairbanks and Kenai.  To put that in perspective……  My next truck will cost less than this trip did, but I still say that this is some of the best money I’ve ever spent.  Our kids will someday bury us and Amanda might say…… “You remember the summer they took us to Alaska”.   Travis might just reply…… “Don’t forget the bear spray and fireworks”.  J

I must offer a series of thanks to all the folks that helped this dream become realized:

·         Erik and Lilly – for being “all in” and meaning it, from day one.  Y’all seized the trip……. “Carpe Salmon”?? immediately and made it an excellent time for all of us.
·         Pop, Kim- for the encouragement to go, and taking Winston to “Camp Grammie/PawPaw”
·         Jimmy and Cindy – for also helping manage Winston while we were gone
·         Josh and Rachel – for watching our chickens, who now won’t want to return to the City life having spent the summer in the deluxe country setting of Nocona
·         Lynn and Brek – for getting on the plane, understanding that opportunities like these are rare
·         Tammy and Matt, Kent (AND GLENN....DONT FORGET GLENN, and the fireworks dad) and Corey – for allowing me the extra time off
·         Brandon, Ryan, Garrett, Nathan, Fonseca, Hoelting and the extended team - for filling in the gap at work
·         Mary and Scotty- for your thoughtful gifts toward our trip
·         Erinn – for managing the house and dealing with the antics of the Young Adults group (forking the yard) while we were gone.
·         Drew, Erinn, and Nathan- for carrying Deanna’s load while she was away
·         For anyone else whom I’ve forgotten, thank you!


To any blog followers who’ve read along and suffered this foolishness, let me take a minute to encourage you to dream big and execute bigger.  Rather than spend more time on the couch letting life pass you, think long range.  Imagine the world you want, and build it. Find dependable friends and be one to them.  Train your children to be the adult you wish you were.  Be the man your dog thinks you are.  Also, know this…… vacations don’t define us, or they shouldn’t.  Our lives define us. Make yours be something you won’t regret.

day 57 - flights to Dallas

Saturday July 29 – day 57 flights to Dallas

We got to the airport WAAAAY early (8:45pm) for our 12:59am flight, and checked our bags.  The guy who checked my firearm box not only was okay with the way I’d packed my pistols with the fish, he congratulated me for it, saying it was the first time he’d seen such a move.    On to TSA…..  now bear in mind, I sold a pickup on this trip, so I had to clear all the cubbyholes and stuff. All that stuff went into my backpack, along with all the other non-clothes stuff I’m bringing back, along with a wooden goats head art decoration we got in Kenai.  I wasn’t entirely surprised when the TSA folks pulled my bag for “closer inspection”, but I was a bit surprised when the lady doing the inspection said she’d seen a “gun barrel” in the bag. Gulp……  once she started digging, the “gun barrel” turned out to be a 3/8” torque wrench.  J

However, every OTHER member of the family also got detained for further investigation:  Amanda – for her rock collection, being smuggled home in Pringles jars, Travis – for having explosives residue (don’t forget the fireworks, dad!”, and Deanna got a closer pat down – for being the mother of the residue kid, and for being generally attractive.  Once we cleared TSA, the Jetblue flight was uneventful, except for the family of 4 in the loading area that had two hellion boys who were yelling, jumping, crawling, everywhere while their parents looked away and just didn’t care.  We all took Drammamine to help fall asleep while on the plane.  To our astonishment, the mother of the two hellions went to the convenience store and bought them SKITTLES!! Yes, that’ll help.  Alas, we were fortunate to get seats far away from them, and truth be told, I was asleep in minutes.  Heck, maybe the lady laced the Skittles with opium…..


The flight map showed that we were above Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Once we landed in Seattle, it was a bit of a rush to go get our checked bags, get over to the SW ticket counter and get them checked back in.  The lady with TSA in Seattle seemed FAR less impressed that I’d packed my pistols along with the fish.  This was a substantial break in protocol to her, and was looked upon with a suspicious eye.  I had to unpack it all, show her the (unloaded) guns and re-secure everything, but it ultimately worked out for our flight to Houston and eventually to Dallas. 

Above Seattle we saw Mt. Rainier in the distance

Arriving in Houston, we found that our flight to Dallas had been delayed, because the plane coming in from Chicago was delayed.  I guess it all can’t go perfect.



Erik is picking us up at LUV Field, and then we head home for much anticipated sleep in a house that’s probably hotter than blazes after having the AC turned off for two months….

day 56 - Anchorage to airport

Friday July 28 – day 56 –Anchorage to airport….

Wish I could have overslept intentionally, cause I know it’s going to be a loooong day, but alas, the bladder alarm clock has no snooze, and once awake, I’m awake for good. 

Final packing was pretty easy, cause we’ve had 3 days of practice and preparation.  We’re allowed one checked bag for free, but have 5 bags worth of stuff.  In an effort to economize (to avoid baggage fees) I put various misc items (rain gear, some shoes, other clothes, and both pistols) in the freezer then in the fish coolers (there were 2, because we caught too many fish) to efficiently pack. Deanna wins the stacking award, though, cause her bag weighed 50.4# (carried like 75) and the airlines were nice enough to round down. 

Amanda thought that the kitty should be part of her carry on luggage :-)

We left the AirBnB house around 1pm, and headed to Campbell Creek Science Center.  This is a ~700 acre park on the east side of town.  It is home to a lot of wildlife.  We saw some spawned out (ie dying) red/sockeye salmon, and the river stunk just a bit from other decaying carcasses.  On our hike, we also encountered about 30 kids under the loose control of 3 or 4 early 20’s teachers.  Kids were just running rampant, and it seemed like a stressful situation (having that many kids running crazy in bear country) but it didn’t phase the teachers.  Either they are locals, or just don’t care.  Or both.

Still fighting his way upstream

We saw one decaying salmon carcass up on a ridge above the creek. I’m not sure if it died of natural causes, eagle, or bear, but for sure, the fish didn’t jump 10’ above waterline and onto shore on his own. =P

Yeah... this fish looks like it died of natural causes up here on the bank

Fresh bear poop- at least it didn't have any tiny bells in it :-)


Continuing our hike, we came across lots of bear sign, including a very fresh stool sample.  It looked so fresh it looked like it ought to be steaming.  In no time, my kids were playing with it, trying to get bear poop on their sibling.  Sibling love is special like that…..

After that, we fiddled around town, hitting the local fur trading company, the berry/chocolate factory (home of the largest milk chocolate fall), then the Museum at Wells Fargo, which showed cool samples of local history/relevance.


Then we made our final thrift store donation and headed to the iconic Mooses Tooth.  We arrived at 5pm, and the wait was already “55 minutes”, although it didn’t take that long to get us seated.  A couple hefeweizens later, we were staring down a large Carnivore, and a large chicken Rockefeller.  These pies were awesome.  The Rockefeller actually included “garlic” as a topping. Close inspection revealed that entire cloves were used to top the pizza, and they were fantastic. Probably not the nicest thing to order before settling in for 3, 4 and 1 hour flights next to strangers, but the pizza was awesome.  We ended up with 4 pieces for leftovers, to serve as breakfast later.  J


Thursday, July 27, 2017

Day 55- Anchorage

We continued to sift our stuff to try and reduce the # of bags we’re hauling to TX.

Travis and I weighed the fish we need to transport, and it all won’t fit in a single cooler, and even if it did, it would be well over the 50# limit to avoid “heavy bag” penalty.  This is the very definition of “first world problems”.  J We’ll have to use two coolers (which, we have) and they will be partially full, so we’ll pack the excess cooler space with gear.  Since one of the coolers has a spot to “lock” it, I’m going to try transporting the pistols back in the cooler with the fish. Doing so would allow me to NOT check a separate bag just for the pistols, which had been my plan. J  Alas, the folks at the airport may or may not allow this. 

Someone asked me, “How many fish did you catch on this trip?”, and the truth is, I have no idea.  More than I needed to feed us, but less than I wanted?  J  Fish volumes shipped to TX so far as follows:
·         67# shipped via Alaska Air cargo from Juneau
·         80# shipped home with Erik and his family
·         72# shipped home with Lynn and Brek
·         50# (appx) going home with us on Saturday
Total of 269# of meat being sent home on this trip.  That’s about how much meat we got off the elk last fall.   In addition, I’d estimate we’ve eaten fish in some form just about every other dinner meal. Lake trout, all 5 varieties of salmon available in AK (king, silver, red, pink and chum), dolly varden, halibut, flounder, crab, shrimp, etc, and all of it, delicious. 

Then we went over to Harvest Motors and sold “Big Red”. Transaction was smooth, and suddenly, we found ourselves travelling in a minivan, as if we were just going across town to have dinner with friends. Our trip assets now will fit (somewhat) in the back of the minivan. 

Big Red's last trip with the White family


On the way back, we headed to Kincaid Park, which is on the southwest side of Anchorage, bordering Cook Inlet.  A search for “cheap stuff to do in Anchorage” identified a huge sand dune to play on at the park.  Just before getting to the park, I noticed a young black bear leaning against a tree in someone’s front yard.  Similar to the way I have squirrels in my yard, but bigger, and a bit more challenging.  Of course, there was a struggle for cameras and yelling from within the van, so he ran off.    This would turn out to be the last “big wildlife” spotted on the trip.  It was a bear, inside city limits, in the largest town in the state.  Last Frontier, indeed.  J

Kincaid Park is huge and covered with trails for mountain biking, hiking, dirt biking, ATV use, cross country skiing, etc.  it was just fantastic, and FREE! To use the trails, just park, get out of your car, take a hard look at the map, and go.  I do recommend taking a GPS though, cause of the parks size. It’d be easy to get lost if you didn’t pay attention to the trail map.

Deanna was more than a bit concerned with going on such a hike in clear bear country unarmed (poor planning on my part), but the trails were easy to follow, and we traveled in a pack.   Shortly, we came to the sand dunes. The dune was huge, and really cool to climb.  The view from the top was really nice. you could see a big dirt bike racetrack just south of the sand dunes and the shoreline tidal pool flats to the west.  A crew of 5 people was out in the tidal flats playing in the mud. In short order, an eagle flew over, searching the area for a late lunch.  It was a bunch of cool things, all in one place, and all for free to be used.  No tour guide, no fee charge, very few restrictions, and all of it just outside the largest town in the state.  Cool.   

A beautiful view

The kids playing on the sand dune

The view from the top of the dune toward the shore

A photo taken at the bottom of the dune




Quote for the day?  “Goodbye, Big Red”. 

day 54 - Anchorage

Wednesday July 26 – day 54 –Anchorage

Woke early again, thinking about all the stuff we need to get done today to prep for launch on Friday:
·         Laundry
·         Clean camper for turnover to new owners
·         Donate clothes, misc gear to Salvation Army and/or Boy Scouts
·         Rent a car and pick it up
·         Meet with a potential truck buyer
·         Sell off camper to buyer this evening
If we can get ALL that stuff done effectively, maybe tomorrow can be a “fun” day. Today is all about production.  L

Deanna and I went and met with a guy named Joe who is a full time car salesman and part time preacher.  That seemed an odd combination, but he was a good guy, and agreed to buy the truck.  We’ll deliver it tomorrow to his firm, Harvest Motors. He’s up in Palmer/Wasilla area, and is also affiliated with a thrift store called Thrifters Rock.

We spent most of the day sorting our stuff, and trying to re-pack/re-organize all our gear into keep, sell, donate piles.  More folks came by and bought some of our gear. 

Amanda met some new friends at our Air BnB house :-)
Later in the evening, the camper buyers came by and paid off the balance on the camper and took it home. I hope they make as many memories as we did in the camper.  It really ended up being a good camper to us.  I was sad to see it roll out of the driveway, but wasn’t that sad to have the additional cash in my pocket….


Wednesday, July 26, 2017

day 53 - move to Anchorage

Tuesday July 25 – day 53 – move Anchorage

Woke early this morning for one last run at the salmon before heading to Anchorage and was rewarded with an early pink salmon.  I hooked one more, but lost it bringing it to shoreline. 




We packed and moved to Anchorage today. We had planned to "boondock" at Cabelas for a night, but the AirBnB place we're staying at was available a day early, so we moved directly there to start sorting out all the stuff we packed.



I called the Puffin Charter owner today and talked about the experience we'd had on Sunday. He was very apologetic and said he'd "make it right as possible". He's worked hard for nearly 30 years to build the business, and just a few unfavorable employees have compromised his business.  Again, a good lesson to learn and apply myself.  We all have customers.  

Road was beautiful, but bittersweet. Deanna saw the sadness in my eyes and asked what was up.  I replied “you know that feeling you got when a boyfriend broke up with you?  Well, that’s how I feel with this vacation ending.  I loved it, and had it, but I can’t keep it.  It’s moving on without me.”  To be fair, I guess if you don’t feel kinda like that at the end of every vacation, then you may have picked your destination poorly.  After 8 weeks of doing this, the camper feels like home, and the road feels like my front yard. The truck - my barkalounger… The 7' Ugly Stick and Abu Garcia 6500 my remote control....


The Seward highway (goes from Anchorage to Seward) is really, really nice. Road is in good shape, and you are continuously driving a valley floor, with timbered/snow covered mountains on either side. Mild hill climbs for the pickup.  River crossings are frequent, and there’s a “wild animal rehab” center about 45 minutes south of Anchorage, near the end of Cook Inlet. 

I was very happy to find the AirBnB place amply accommodating. Lots of space, and friendly owners. This is our first AirBnB renting experience, but won't be our last.





Tuesday, July 25, 2017

day 52 - Seward

Monday July 24st – day 52 – Seward

Tough day today. Pop and Brek loaded and left a bit after noon.  We were all sad to see them leave.

Before they rolled out, we did a hike up Lost Lake Trail just north of Seward. The trail was surprisingly mosquito free (or at least, they left us alone) which was quite welcome.  We hiked in about three miles or so, then turned around.  Saw some cool sights, but no critters.




We had lunch at a restaurant that had 3 different store fronts. One was a “Crab Shak”, another a pizza parlor, and the third sold “Mexican” food.  None of us were brave enough to test Mexican food in Alaska, so Travis and I had pizza while everyone else had seafood.  My pizza had the following toppings:  smoked salmon, reindeer (caribou) sausage, onion, mushroom and black olives.  Brek ordered calamari as an appetizer and all of it was fantastic.



Spent some time packing up and preparing for the campers final moves. Sad days around here as we anticipate our own migration south to Texas.

Travis and I spent an hour or so slinging Pixies (not a rock band, it’s a spoon like lure) at the pink salmon but did no damage except to the seaweed population.  We didn’t catch anything, but it was good at helping me with my “last days funk”.  Reminds me of the advice from my friend Jud, who counseled me through a tough time in my life about two years ago. He said, “when I get in a spot like you’re in, I go kill something, and that helps”.  I didn’t kill any salmon, but it was helpful to try. J