Thursday, June 8, 2017

days 4-6 Tetons

June 6 – Tuesday – Travel up to Grand Tetons – Day 4

Lotsa miles.  Southern Wyoming isn’t that glorious, really. It’s sparse, with lots of antelope.
Whereas the entire western half of Colorado is awesome, Wyoming’s awesome is far more concentrated, with lots of not–awesome mixed in between.  Actually, I’m being too harsh. Most of the roads follow rivers, and these rivers (at least, Wind River, which rolls through the Shoshone Indian Reservation) just tend to be farther from the mountains than I’d like. We took 287 almost entirely from Loveland, CO to the Tetons.  287 was made to connect TX money with places of interest, I believe.  It connects Houston and Dallas with other places which are far more glorious than they…. The whole time you’re on it, you want to be somewhere else.  When you get on it in Decatur, you want to be in Amarillo.  Once you get to Amarillo, you’re thinking about Raton, NM, and then Denver, CO. After Denver, you’re thinking Tetons/Yellowstone.  And crazy enough, 287, yes, the same 287 that crosses 45 just south of Ennis will take you all the way to Yellowstone. Hell, it’s the main drag through the park itself. Today I saw a guy riding southbound on it in a UTV.
Back to the fun stuff……. The Tetons, unlike most of 287, are awesome in spades. Just fantastic country, overrun with critters and views.

Once we got camp setup, we took a brief tour of the area to orient ourselves. Appx ¼ mile from my camper sits a rock beach where you can swim, if you’re bold enough, the eastern side of Lake Jackson. On the western side, and I mean IMMEDIATELY on the western side, sits the mountain range that made the park famous. Lake Jackson is at 6772 feet of elevation (ASL).  Some of the Teton range are well over 13,000’. That means the mountains you’re looking at (oh, and did I mention they still have A LOT of snow on them?) are well over a mile higher than the lake itself.  The combination of high mountain lake, with a snow-covered mountain range in the backdrop just makes you sit, and after a series of minutes searching for something better…… just say “wow”, cause that’s all you can do. Watching a storm blow over, putting new snow on top while you watch snowmelt into a river out the bottom is like getting to watch God himself shuffle cards in a game for which you don’t understand all the rules.
me, foxy woman, kid skipping rocks, God shuffling nature in background


Returning to camp for dinner, we met our immediate neighbor, Tom.  Tom lives partly in Idaho and partly in California.  Tom has a nice Ranger bass boat, so I asked him if he’d been doing any good (this is how total strangers who both fish introduce themselves).  Fishermen don’t have to know each other at all to strike up a discussion.  They just say “been doin’ any good?”.   Tom said he’d thrown back about 60 trout that morning.  Sixty. Trout.  Upon my calling him a liar, Tom busted out his cell phone and showed me pictures of elk, moose, mule deer, antelope, bass, trout and just about every other thing that tastes good west of the Mississippi.  Including, but not limited to, a helluvalot of lake trout….
Tom on right, Travis holding dinner


When I grow up, I definitely want to be a Tom, but I feel grossly behind schedule. I mentioned that if he wanted to keep a couple of those, we’d be glad to eat them. Tom returned about 4 hours later, having hit 100 trout fish for the day, with 9 huge lake trout for the table. Then he filleted them for us, showed us where he had been catching them, on what, and how to work them.  To top it all off he gave us some of his lures, some rosemary from his garden for the trout, and a recipe for cooking them. No sh%t.  Men don’t do this. Tom does.  Attaboy sir.  Tom used to run an outdoors store called “Glory Hole Outdoors” in California, specializing in big bass.


June 7  - Day 5 – Amanda’s birthday
Day started with a brief birthday celebration over leftovers, during which Deanna delivered a book light she’d procured in TX. Momma loves her girl and got her exactly what she wanted.
lillipad flower Travis gave Amanda for birthday


Kids and I took the canoe out on Lake Jackson.  The area we fished was about a 20-30 minute paddle from the boat launch.  Upon arrival, it started raining.  Of course, we’d all laid out our fishing clothes (including raingear) the night before, and promptly left rain gear in the camper….  So we beached the boat and sat out a 30 minute rainstorm under a big spruce tree.  Once it stopped raining, we relaunched and started back up the lake.  About halfway up the next section of lake, we saw a black bear come out of the woods and head out to a small-ish island out in the lake. A little drama came when we realized that the bear in question had moved from the same patch of woods that we’d been sitting in only minutes before. Aye-caramba! 

We fished hard til about 10 am and headed back. We saw a lot of trout, but never caught one. I did catch a big “sucker” fish, that was bright orange.

Once we got back to camp, we ate lunch and headed to Jackson, WY.  I thought it was a pretty cool mountain touristy town, but like all touristy towns…. Isn’t as entertaining as the Tetons that made Jackson famous.  The ski lift at Jackson Hole is RIGHT THERE on the edge of town. Pretty cool. My hometown needs a ski mountain, I think.  And a much-improved snow forecast….
THEY HAVE FOUR OF THESE ARCHES!  one one each corner in main square


We followed Tom’s recipe for the trout. Cooked 4 of them and holy moly….. They were fantastic!  
chow time


Served with a side of rice and steamed veggies.  Recipe as follows:

·         Leave skin on the trout FILLETS – yes, fillets. Cut off all bones you can, but know that some will still be in the meat.
·         Put a layer of AL foil on the grill and poke a couple holes in it.
·         Melt butter on foil to help skin not stick (and butter always helps)
·         Put fish on, skin down of course
·         Sprinkle on some garlic (we used garlic salt, cause that’s what we had)
·         Add some rosemary (from Tom’s garden)
·         Add slice of lemon
·         And to this, I added some lemon pepper
·         Grill about 5-8 minutes on low
·         Skin was my favorite part.  It had a stronger flavor and was a little crispy from the heat.




June 8  - Thursday - Day 6– still in Tetons – By Amanda.  This morning Travis, my dad(Shane), and I went fishing again. Different from yesterday, we actually caught fish! It wasn’t trout though; it was sort of weird sucker fish. That didn’t make it any less fun though.  We caught a ton! Probably over 60! They sure did put up a fight though. Once you got one hooked, it was like trying to hold on to a fire hose! At the end of the day my dad(Shane) caught one small trout. It was only about 6 inches long. Better than nothing though.

Later that day we went canoeing on Snake River. My dad and I went first, and it was pretty boring. It was slow, and in the middle part we had to paddle a lot. My mom(Deanna) and brother(Travis) went next and had fun. 
discharge off Jackson Lake dam - a good place to launch the canoe!! we really did put in just downstream of this! :)


Mom and Travis on Snake River

My dad, brother, and I decided we wanted to do a more adventurous river, so we went on one called Pacific Creek, but it was no creek. 
two kids, and one irresponsible "adult"

There were trees, sticks, and rocks everywhere! We got stuck in the shallow rocks a lot. I was half yelling at my brother to paddle and half praying to the Lord to save us. About half way through, we got to a bridge that we planned on going under, but it turned out there was only about a foot of clearance under it, and the canoe was taller than that, so we had to quickly paddle to the side and drag it up a hill to the street. My dad had to walk down the street to where my mom was parked, ready to pick us up, and drive back to us where we were left there on the side of the road. I’m pretty sure half the people that passed us thought we were homeless. I also think I saw an old lady pass us and almost start crying because she thought we were two homeless kids with a canoe.

Saw a bear on the way back to camp! 
this picture is for you, Mary!! yes, a bear! 


After we got back we had hamburgers, but I didn’t eat one because I was busy writing this.

Overall it was a pretty good day. J

Monday, June 5, 2017

days 2 and 3 in RMNP

June 3 – Saturday - Day One of the Journey

Today was mostly miles, rain, and refilling diesel. We pre-staged everything for a “clean launch”.  I woke up at 2:30am and was ready to roll. Final loading cooler, brewing coffee and on the road at about 3:15am. All of us wondering “now what did I forget?”.
The ride into Estes Park was uneventful. No flats, no meltdowns, no big deal, really. 
Estes Park greeted us with snow on the mountaintops and elk in camp. No kidding.  They got a “serious dusting” last week, that put two feet of snow in town, and (reportedly…..) 14’ on some of the mountaintops.   Sounds like BS, but there sure was a lot of snow up there, and today is still June 3rd!
Chicken nugget salad for dinner, a walk through the town, and an early scotch had us in bed fairly early.



June 4th – Sunday – Day two
Woke early and cooked pancakes and sausage for breakfast.  Loaded family into Big Red (pickup) and headed to Fern Lake Trail.  The trailhead was cleanly marked and easy to follow, but had a decent bit of vertical gain. Too much for flatlanders on day two. =/  Hiked about 6 miles round trip and saw some awesome waterfalls. Tremendous showing by animals. Elk all over the place, including one cow right here in camp, I believe the total headcount JUST FOR TODAY was about 38, including 9 bulls, all of which were near the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center. Nice bulls there, but not at all a hunted population. Hunting these would be like shooting the family dog.
Oddly enough, we’re having elk for dinner via frito pie. J




June 5 – Monday – Day 3
Plan to drive around park stopping and “touring” while going easy on our feets. I didn’t make any friends on yesterdays family hike.  At least….. not in my family.

We drove “Trail Ridge Road” (aka Co Hwy 34) from Estes Park all the way to Granby today.
 AWESOME views from the ridge. TONS of elk, many muleys, and a good number of moose.  Lots of pictures.
hows that for a profile picture?  above treeline, alpine tundra, two bulls

snowy mountaintop, and the woman with whom I'm having a torrid love affair.... :)

We got involved in a traffic jam on the road, caused by a nice 5x5 bull elk walking right down the yellow line at…… well, an elks pace.  J
nice bull in the middle of the road!  no rush....


One of the highlights was picking up a couple dudes who were SKIING from the top of the ridge down to another portion of the road about 1200’ lower.  We hauled them back to the top, and they thanked us for being their “ski lift” that trip. Very cool.  
skiers we hauled up the hill


It snowed on us quite a bit. Top of the road was around 11,800’ of elevation.


Tomorrow, we launch for the Tetons. Deanna is looking forward to more Huckleberry Soda, which is brewed in Jackson, WY. 

Friday, June 2, 2017

T- minus nuthin

Launch date is upon us.  Tomorrow. 

Stuff is loaded, spare tires are staged and prayed over.

Meals are pre-cooked for several days. Fishing reels have been re-strung.  

Wife is nervous and cleaning feverishly, even though we wont be around for quite some time....  Chickens are confused. Kids are antsy.  I'm chompin at the bit, ready to be turned loose. 

Set me free, for the mountains and salmon are a calling.  <- a butchered John Muir quote. 

Next post ought to include pictures of elk, camp #1, and tall scotch.

Yall take care of Texas with its heat and hail while we're on sabbatical.    

I'll quote our pastor "don't lean on a shovel and pray for a hole".  Dreams go unrealized only when not acted upon.  We've been digging/praying for a long time. 

A kind lady at work made this (photoshopped) picture, and it was too funny not to share. Enjoy!


Tuesday, May 30, 2017

Thoreau - Walden quote

"I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived." ~ Thoreau

 - awesome book, and very much the reason I want to do stuff like this

Monday, May 29, 2017

Memorial Day Revelation

ongoing talk and harassment of elders finally hit it's tipping point this weekend.  My uncle "B" who I love spending time with finally broke down and made flight reservations.  Better yet, he goaded my dad into joining him. :) WAHOO!   'bout danged time!

They are booked to fly into Anchorage on July 20th, and they depart back for TX on the 24th.  That leaves them a short ~3.5 days to see Alaska, but they will certainly be action packed days. 

Early read on itinerary will be for a guided silver (coho) salmon trip on the 21st. Likely a mild hike on the 22nd, then a guided halibut/silver trip on the 23rd.  They don't leave til late on the 24th, so they'll get to see the Seward highway in the daytime before flying home.  I can't tell yall how pumped I am about this. (although, I guess I just did....)  They will see a tiny fraction of Alaska, but they'll check it off their bucket list, and might decide they want to check it again someday. :)

Yes, it's a helluvalot of money just to catch some fish, but is that what life is about?  the having of money, or the catching of fish? even beholding the majesty offered along the Seward Highway? Nay.  I say life is about spending time with those you love. Glad to see Pop and "B" are coming so I can do just that. 

An already blessed life just got a little better. :)


Saturday, May 6, 2017

00 the original vision - AK

So in the summer of 2009, I was listening to an old Jerry Jeff Walker album (yes, an album) in the garage, and a song, "Night Riders Lament" came on. The song is about a cowboy working the night shift (watching cattle) in Alaska. His friends don't understand why he left the lower 48 to take up a bad paying job with long hours in a place so far away. To understand what's about to happen, it's worth listening to the song......

www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxyAv4trk_I&list=RDFxyAv4trk_I

Methinks, I'd like to visit there (Alaska) someday.  Secretly, I wanted to be a cowboy too, but I'll probably just stick with engineering til the money runs out.

When my family goes on vacation, it's always a truck, a camper, too much gear, and lots of miles. Alaska sounded a long ways off, but an attainable goal, still.  God left it there for enjoying. I just needed to get there.

I started stewing on such a trip. Google said it was nearly 4000 miles from my porch to Fairbanks, AK. So...... it'd take a week of driving to get there, then I'd have to change my oil upon arrival. Taking a 3 week vacation (long by anyone's standards) would mean a week getting there, a week of enjoyment (actual vacation) and then a very miserable week driving home. That's a horrible plan.

I realized that to really do this trip right, I'd need to burn far more than 3 weeks of my precious work PTO (paid time off) to make it a pleasant trip.   I remember thinking.... "to do this right, it'd take a whole danged summer and you (me) can't do that".

but then I thought..... "why CAN'T you do that?"  who sayeth thou shalt not enjoy long stretches of time, highway, salmon and friendship together? Where is that written?  Exodus?  Leviticus? I think not.  It was just written in my mind, and in my habits.  Good time to start rethinking this stuff. :)

our company had a layoff in 2008 and another in 2010.  I didn't get let go, but it did effect me emotionally.  I had to let 4 people go personally. Each of them came into work that day only to find out that we just didn't need them.  We hadn't sold enough work to keep them busy. It was painful.

So I started thinking..... "what would have to be true for me to take off a whole summer?" I made a bullet list of things that would have to be true for me to take off a whole summer. The list is as follows:

  • house must be paid off
  • money to fund entire trip (I'm not going into debt to have a good time)
  • SHTF money in the bank, in case I returned to find I had no job upon return
  • willing to quit my job entirely if my company wouldn't allow the extended time off 

I could deal with that. Could work deal with it?  Probably.

So, I started talking to some close friends. Fools I thought might like such a trip. Better yet, fools foolish enough to join in the fray, suffering and good times. Each of them said "you're crazy, and hells yes I want to do that".

Next step was assessing readiness to meet the above conditions.  I take a quarterly snapshot of our debts, assets, NW so I can track how we're trending as our own P&L (profit and loss) center.  This would be a great indicator of when we'd be able to go. :)

Overall, our family has been very fortunate in all facets of life. Career wise - great. Kids are healthy and doing well. We work pretty diligently to "live within our means" and invest for our future.  Our house is considerably under the average value for our hometown.  Had we indulged every material urge, we'd be in debt up to our eyeballs like most of America is. We just don't buy much stuff, and the stuff we buy, we try to buy cheap (garage sales, thrift stores, craigslist, etc). Retail purchases aren't verboten, but they aren't the first line of defense, either.

Fortunately, my wife is pretty frugal, and I'm Scotch-Irish. Scots in particular are famously cheap. I got that gene, and maybe an extra.  Still, we were MILES away from ready, financially. Early projections said we'd be financially "ready" when I was 72. I was 36 when the idea got hatched. No kidding. Time to seriously buckle down.  

So our already cheap family got cheaper.  When finances turned favorable (at all) we put that excess money down on the mortgage. We did this til it "hurt" and then a bit beyond.  After 3 years of work at it (2012), our mortgage was gone.  The house was not. :)

By 2016, we were ready to go, but our kids were still on the young side.  This trip is as much for them as anybody.  Its the trip of a lifetime, and I want them to enjoy all the trip has to offer.  The kids have been an integral part of our planning and prepping.  I wanted them to experience "saving" for something they wanted to do.  It's a great life lesson. (wanting, not having, and saving to get, rather than borrowing). I know, hardly American at all..... but the system of waiting patiently has rarely failed us....

So we deferred the trip a year to 2017. Now our kids are in the 11-13 range.  They are (or will be soon) making major life decisions. Decisions like.... who will my long term friends be?  what will I do on Saturday nights?  what will I drink? what will I smoke? and the dreaded "how far will I go?"

When I was in that phase of life, I made most of those decisions wrongly.  My world was small and my mind was too. I want them to realize that the world is huge, opportunities are many, and it is they, not their world that is small. Selfishly, I wish the kids were old enough to drive on a trip like this, where I expect to drive nearly 5000 miles on the whole trip.....

Anyhoo, we decided 2017 was the year.

Next step was determining "how" to execute an Alaska trip of this sort. Several options had emerged:

  1. an "Alaska cruise" - easy option, and what most (smarter) people do - but not enough AK time for us. 
  2. fly up, rent a camper and putt around til end of trip, fly home - the camper rental (commonly $150-$250/day) was a budget killer for us
  3. drive up the famed "ALCAN" highway and drive back - got killed because the crummiest part of any trip, the drive home would have taken a SOLID week.  who wants to miss work so he can drive a truck and camper ~4000 miles?  not this guy. 
  4. drive up, enjoy ourselves, sell the camper, canoe, truck and donate everything we couldn't sell to goodwill?  
After countless considerations, we decided option 4 was for us.  Yeah, I know it sounds nutty, but we're like that.

We (purposefully) bought a 4wd Dodge diesel pickup (pulls trailers well), put a camper shell on it, added a canoe rack, and added a 31' bumper pull camper to the mix.  None of it is in "glorious" condition, but Alaskans are pretty pragmatic.  They'd rather have a scratched/beat up item that works well than a failure in great condition (or so I believe).  All this stuff works.  :)
Pickup, camper shell and canoe.  
the Alaska camper - home sweet not so home  - for two months

Other items that needed to be taken care of:
  • reservations for ~56 nights of campsites (THANKS WIFE!!!)
  • what to do with our 4 chickens?  loan them to an old friend and his family!
  • family golden retriever? Pawn him off on grandparents.   
  • house?  what to do with the house? get a buddy from church to stay at our place to make sure all stays well while we're gone!  Arm him well and tell him to eat everything in the freezer. 
Then plan, pack and prepare....

Okay, so here's our general travel route plan*:

* "no well laid battle plan survives the first bullet" - General Patton

  1. Depart TX early and drive to Rocky Mountain National Park, CO
  2. Grand Tetons NP, WY
  3. Yellowstone NP, WY
  4. Glacier NP, MT
  5. Banff, AB (yes, that's Alberta, Canada) - my buddies family will meet us here
  6. Prince Rupert, BC (British Columbia) - BC is awesome. we went in 2015 and it was just fantastic. Canadians are awesome people. 
  7. take the AK Ferry to Petersburg, AK
  8. Ferry to Juneau, AK
  9. Ferry to Haines, AK
  10. two border crossings (through Yukon) on the way to Tok, AK
  11. Fairbanks, AK
  12. Denali NP, AK (staying in Talkeetna)
  13. Homer, AK
  14. Anchorage, AK - buddies family sells out and flys home 
  15. Seward, AK
  16. Soldotna, AK
  17. Anchorage, AK
  18. fly home through Seattle back to TX

I realize that sounds like a lot, and I hope to God it will be. a lot of miles, a lot of diesel, a lot of camper setups, a lot of repairs, flat tires, trout, salmon, dolly varden, and we're doing it all for the halibut :)  - Three Stooges reference......

It's gonna take a lot of cheap red wine and sunflower seeds to get through a trip like that, but I believe I'm good for it.

More updates to come. :)











Friday, May 5, 2017

Phoenix Work Trip

I just set this thing up and want to see if it'll take a post. I'll also try and upload a recent pic as a test as well. 

the picture I've included was from a recent trip to Phoenix. Some coworkers and I climbed to the top of Camelback Mountain in Scottsdale, AZ.  Pretty cool hike, and fantastic views.  

Started at 5am and made it to the top (1400' vertical climb) by 5:50am. Back at the hotel by 7am for meetings at 8am. Busy morning. :)

I'm the good looking one in the middle....